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The host resort for the European Open and
owned by the ex-head of the ISF, Laax has
been one of the best resorts in Europe in
catering for snowboarders for a long time.
It is located in the canton of Graubunden,
approximately 1-2hrs South-East of Zurich.
Laax is an excellent all round resort. It
has great freestyle facilities, some fun freeriding
and not too many package ski holiday type
customers. The villages servicing the resort,
Flims, Laax, and Falera aren´t too touristy
but still still have plenty of accommodation,
eating out and partying options.
The ski area is big so it's not too hard to
get fresh tracks, and the modern high capacity
lift system means that lift lines are usually
pretty minimal. The resort hosts several competitions
throughout the year, the biggest being the
European Open, held in late January each year.
Other contests are the Pleasure Spring Sessions
in the lead up to the close of the season
and of course the Orange Brits held in March.
Freestyle
Laax builds a big park each year. It is well
maintained and includes a superpipe, a smaller
halfpipe, rails and boxes as well as a huge
variety of kickers, so if you are into park
riding you are going to be pretty well catered
for.
All the freestyle stuff is located around
Crap Sogn Gion. The pipe and some other features
are covered by a surface lift and the others
by the Plaun lift. Early season or when the
conditions don’t quite come to the party
there is a pipe and some kickers set up on
the Vorab glacier. The only trouble with the
glacier is that it takes a few lifts and quite
a bit of time to get there.
Freeriding
The freeriding in Laax, whilst not being in
the same league as Chamonix and Verbier in
that it doesnt have longer big mtn type lines,
still has enough gnarly terrain to satisfy
most riders. The Cassons Gondola, which is
a bit old and slow, accesses some good terrain.
The fact that it’s not in the main part
of the resort keeps this area a little less
crowded and therefore untracked a bit longer.
It is a wide open bowl area, not super steep,
but it has a lot of natural hits and places
to build kickers.
The chairlift La Siala was closed for a fair
while due to avalanche danger when I was there
but was epic when it finally opened. It is
steep, had lots of powder, chutes and cliffs/drops
of different sizes especially if you are willing
to hike a little bit along the ridgeline.
The lower part of the mountain, coming down
from the main services area on the top of
the mountain at Crap Sogn Gion is in the trees.
Either the runs to Falera or Laax or to the
lift at Plaun are good areas to head to if
weather is snowy or cloudy, as the trees provide
shelter so a good time can still be had.
Nightlife/Accommodation
At the base of the gondolas in Laax there
is an interestingly named establishment, the
'Crap Bar'. The locals maintain that it means
rock in Romansch, the traditional local language
(Swiss German is more widely spoken given
the influx of visitors each season) and the
bar itself is made up of a bunch of flat rocks
so that along with the abundance of other
'Crap' things in a pretty good place means
I will have to take their word for it. Anyway,
it’s a nice bar that isn’t full
of too many cheesy apres-ski types and a good
place to get a beer after a days riding.
Later on in the night there are a couple of
other places to check out. The Riders Palace
is a Hostel/Hotel in Laax 200m or so from
the gondola. It has a modern bar that plays
some good tunes, friendly staff and some bean
bags in one end of an open area to chill.
Downstairs is the nightclub which has a bunch
of concerts and parties during the season,
especially when the European Open comes to
town. It has hosted people such as Busta Rhymes,
Snoop Dog, The Wailers, Millencollin and others.
Riders Palace also has dorm style rooms that
are pretty affordable, through to huge double
rooms that looked pretty slick.
In between Laax and Flims is another nightspot
which is a good place to party, the Flem Massive.
Despite this being another potentially dubious
name it is a fun bar with a dance floor that
heats up later. Plans of getting first lifts
went out the window when I had a night out
here though. You have been warned...
Local Stores
There are some good snowboard stores. In Flims,
a store called Chopp, has some super helpful
staff that give good advice and a good range
of products as well. Located at the base of
the gondolas in both Laax and Flims are the
Snowboard Garage stores that have a big range
of hardgoods and outerwear.
Getting to Laax
Most people will probably arrive via Zurich
airport. There is a train from the airport
to the central station where you can get a
connection to Chur. From here it is a short
bus ride to the villages of Laax, Flims, or
Falera, that make up the resort of Laax. Total
journey time = 2hrs. Laax is in the east of
Switzerland, in between Zurich and Innsbruck,
so it could be combined with a trip to the
Tyrol.
It's worth noting that the Swiss railway and
bus system is extremely good and therefore
travellng in Switzerland is not as mad/frustrating
as doing the same thing in Spain or France.
The services are comprehensive, well organised,
run regularly, and you can get a ticket which
covers both the bus and train legs of a journey.
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