Known as the European Alaska, the mountains surrounding the Chamonix valley are not only the highest, but also the gnarliest in Europe. Nowhere else in Europe is there such a diversity of peaks, domes, needles, pyramids, mounts, and glaciers. Chamonix is best known for its freeriding but it certainly caters for all types of snowboarder and is one of the worlds hot spots for seasonaires. With good snow conditions, Chamonix is definitely one of the best resorts in Europe for advanced riding.


A local rider drops a cornice in Le Flegere | Photo: Giles @ Freshtraxxx

The valley comprises about six different skiing areas, all accessed by free buses which run along the valley every few minutes. Basically you're spoilt for choice...

Grand Montets is the largest and most popular resort in Chamonix, and is located directly above the town of Argentiere. It is North-facing so snow conditions stay good off-piste for a few days after snowfall. The problem is that due to it's popularity, all the best runs will be tracked out by lunchtime. The top station is definitely worth going to if conditions are good. From the summit (3300m) you can check out the amazing views and then access some of the best powder runs in the whole valley, but be sure to know where you're going as there are shit loads of crevasses. Other powder areas to check out are the Lavancher bowl accessed by the Bochard lift. Follow the Black run from the top and this leads you there. This area offers open powder riding, chutes, and plenty of rock drops, as well as a few nice cornices. If there's plenty of snow you can actully ride all the way to the valley floor coming out at Le Lavancher.

Grand Montets also hosts Chamonix's new snowboard park. Yes, after years and years of poor snowparks, Chamonix have finally got it sorted, the snowpark is designed and maintained by H05Parks and has a solid selection of different sized/shaped kickers, rails, and two boarder cross courses. The park lacked a halfpipe for 2006/07 but everyone is hopeful it will be built in 07/08.


Seatbelt in the Grand Montets snowpark | Photo: Giles @ Freshtraxxx

Many people would say with the amazing natural terrain in Chamonix, you shouldn't waste time in the park. If freestyle is your media type, head to Le Tour at the end of the valley or La Flegere. Both of these resorts are littered with natural jumps, quarters, and gullies. Towards the end of the season La Flegere is almost like one big snow park. The infamous "Big Tit" jump (apparently the biggest natural kicker in Europe!) always sees the best of the local talent going LARGE. This jump is just off the side of the main red run (L'Index) from the top of the shiny new 6 man chairlift which has replaced the classic but frankly crap "Darth Vader" style lifts.

From La Flegere you can get the cable car across to Le Brevent, which is the second largest ski area after Grand Montets, with lots of steep powder runs as well as good on-piste/jib opportunities. The best powder runs are accessed from the top of the new high speed Col Cornu chairlift with some sick natural roll-over jumps off-piste to skier's right of the lift, as well as some couloirs which you will see as you go up on the chair. The runs under the Parsa chair offer some good fast on-piste riding and there's usually plenty of hips etc to hit on the way down.

Be sure to also put aside a day to do the Vallee Blanche/Aiguille du Midi. Even if you're not too into freeriding this is a must do just for the experience. Aiguille du Midi is the highest cable car in Europe at 3842 metres. From the summit you must make your way down a knife-edge ridge before reaching the ridable terrain, which is a 20km unmarked, untrailed, pure off-piste run on the glacier. The views from the top are amazing and with good snow conditions so is the riding, with endless variations. Be warned though, this is glacial terrain and is extremely dangerous. It is suited to confident snowboarders only, you should take a guide or a knowledgable local with you and be sure to have climbing harnesses, trancievers etc.

The nightlife in Chamonix is very good compared to most resorts, with lots of lively bars and clubs.
New on the scene and making a big impact is Le Vert. 1km out of town in the Gaillands it has a good mix of live bands, local and international DJ’s, and live sports on the big screens. Le Vert is also a good value hotel for people looking to stay somewhere cheap and lively.

Since the shocking fire that took out most of the Rue de Moulin and with it some of Chamonix’s best loved bars including Cybar, Bar De Moulin, Dick's Tea Bar and the Queen Vic, the focus of the nightlife in Cham has shifted to Cham Sud (or the “ghetto” as it’s known by the hundreds of seasonaires that live there). Alongside old favourites like the Swedish run South Bar new places have opened including Monkey Bar. The Jekyll (Cham’s Irish bar) and the Vagabond, both on the south side of town are also old favourites. La Cantina, a Mexican theme hotel in the centre of town, has a club underneath which often has good local DJ's playing, mainly focused around Chamonix's reggae/hiphop scene!


A Skillz playing at Le Vert | Photo: Giles @ Freshtraxxx

For a great mix of beer brewed on site, cracking burgers and live music the MBC on the outskirts of town to the north is the place to head. In Argentiere The Office is the main bar but is more aimed at families and skiers, for something a bit more rocking head to the new FuBar, sister to Bar’d Up in town, which has it’s own rodeo bull ride!

The diversity of nationalities in Chamonix makes it a great place to visit or stay for a season, as there are lots of young people doing the same thing. I would recommend it as one of the best places to spend a season, not just for the snowboarding and skiing, but for the liveliness of the town and general fun/party vibe to the place. The only aspect of the resort which lets in down compared to others in Europe is that not being a specific snow resort, accessing the mountains is more difficult and time consuming. I suppose the landscape of the valley dictates this, it is an extreme area.

Chamonix also has plenty of good snowboarder run shops. Check out Otavalo, Zero G, and Sport Extreme, all good boarding shops.

Chamonix's skatepark (yes this place really does have everything!) is located just out of the town centre near the Sports Complex. It is outdoor but by late March it is usually skate-able on dry days. The park comprises a quarter, flat bank, funbox and a few grind boxes, definitely worth checkin out.

Travel to Chamonix is very easy. Get a flight to Geneva then follow the Autoroute Blanche which leads straight into the valley (journey is just over an hour). You can get a transfer to the resort pretty cheap. Staying in Argentiere means you are closer to the best terrain but the nightlife is limited. Otherwise Chamonix-Sud has plenty of cheap apartments (and plenty of horny Scandinavian girls too!)

Resorts close to Chamonix worth checking out:

Flaine
Morzine
Avoriaz
Verbier




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