Tucked away in the Pyrenees, Baqueira Beret is a ski resort in the Val D'Aran, Spain. This little known ski area with a little-known secret: it is in fact the biggest resort in the Pyrenees. It also benefits from a microclimate which delivers more snow than anywhere else in the region. Although not a huge resort by any means, what it lacks in size it makes up for in so many ways.

Freeriding
Made up of three areas, there are just over 100km of piste with the majority of terrain more suited to intermediate and beginners. However, although the piste map may suggest otherwise, there are still a lot of challenges for the more experienced rider. As well as some fun black runs, one of the best things about this resort is the accessibility of easy off-piste terrain. There is absolutely loads of it around, there's hardly anyone on it, and you don't have to venture far to find it. It is the perfect place to make the transition from on to off-piste.


photo: dominic traynor/mrcapac.com

Each of the three areas that make up the resort have their own unique style of terrain. Whilst Baqueira and Beret are the more popular areas, Bonaigua is practically empty at times with some fantastic riding to be had. Having said that, this resort is ridiculously underused at any time of the season outside school holidays, including Christmas and New Year. I can only remember ever queuing more than a few minutes during two weeks of the school holidays for the southern frogs. It is this kind of thing that attracts a hardcore of visitors who come back year after year.

Freestyle
There isn't really anything significant for freestyle riders in the resort. There is a basic snowpark but locals tend to build their own features. Nevertheless, that doesn't stop this resort from being extremely boarder-friendly. If you're learning to snowboard, this would be one of the best places to learn with so many perfect areas to get to grips with linking turns and other basic technique. This perhaps goes some way to explain the amount of snowboarders who live and work in the valley during the season. The general standard of riding is high amongst these regulars and they give the resort a lively and young feel to it.

Nightlife/Accommodation
The resort village itself is ugly and there's no getting away from that. Plenty of dull apartments owned by the rich from Barcelona which get used maybe a couple of weeks a year. However, the Val D'Aran is insanely beautiful and if you have the sense to stay in one of the traditional villages down the valley, you will get the full experience of this wonderful resort. Salardu and Arties are picture-postcard places that provide exceptionally friendly local atmosphere with apres-ski which gives stoke for the soul. If that's all a bit too wholesome for you, there's always the famous club 'Pacha' in Baqueira itself which closes when first lifts start.

Local stores
There is a good snowboard shop in Baqueira called Cabin Fever as well as an excellent one in Baqueira 1700 (Tanau) called Isuala.

Getting to Baqueira Beret
Only 3.5 hours from Barcelona, Baqueira is perfect for doing a trip on the cheap. Book accommodation locally in one of the villages down the valley (www.bbskischool.co.uk/baqaccommodation.html) and get them to sort out a taxi from Barca to Baqueira. During the season, drivers do this run for around 50€ a head. If you get a ridiculously cheap Easyjet or Ryanair flight then you can really save some money doing it this way and get a full on local experience. If there's a few of you then hiring a car would make it even cheaper and also give you the freedom to explore the whole valley as well as some of the more extreme terrain on offer.

Review by Dominic Traynor / www.mrcapac.com




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